No question about it, winter is hard on your car. You've got ice. You've got salt. And the last thing you want to worry about is getting stranded on the side of the road.
It's important to plan ahead so you don't find yourself with a car that won't start. You should know your battery has a much tougher job during extreme conditions. Your car's engine and other parts require more power to start up in cold weather, and yet it's harder to get power from your battery in the cold.
The older the car, the greater chance for problems. Combine that with an old battery and frigid weather, and you're asking for trouble.
To be on the safe side, you should get your battery tested. Better yet, if you live in a harsh climate, consider replacing your battery if you think it's getting old. A brand new battery can see you through the toughest of winters.
Other tips:
• Park your car in a garage whenever possible.
• If you must leave your car outside all day, find a few minutes a couple of times during the day to go out and start it. Letting your car run for a few minutes will warm up the parts and improve the chances of it starting later.
• Cars are designed to handle temperatures below 0 degrees Fahrenheit, but in much colder weather, you should avoid leaving your car out for an extended period of time.
• Try the Battery Health Checkup on this Web site to see how long your battery is expected to last.
Friday, July 6, 2007
BATTERY TIPS
Taking care of your new battery pack
Normally, a new battery pack comes in a very low charge condition and must be fully charged before use. Refer to the user manual of your portable electronic equipment for charging instructions.
A new battery pack needs to be fully charged and fully discharged or "cycled" as much as five times to condition them into performing at full capacity.
Your equipment may report a fully charge condition in as short as 10 to 15 minutes when the new battery pack is being charged for the first time. This is a normal phenomenon especially for Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) and Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) chemistries. When this happens, remove the battery pack and let it cool down for about fifteen minutes then repeat the charging procedure.
"Conditioning" (fully discharging and then fully charging) is necessary so as to maintain the optimum performance of a battery pack, and is recommended at least once a month particularly for Ni-Cad and Ni-MH batteries. Failure to do so could result in reduced charge capacity and can significantly shorten the battery pack’s useful life. Lithium Ion batteries do not require conditioning.
It is normal for a battery pack to get warm when charging and during use. However, if the battery pack gets excessive hot, there may be a problem with the portable electronic equipment’s charging circuit and should therefore be checked by a qualified technician.
Rechargeable batteries undergo self-discharging when left unused for long periods of time. This is normal particularly in the case of Ni-MH and Li-Ion chemistries. For best results, always store a battery pack fully charged. It should be removed from the equipment and kept in a cool, dry and clean place.
The amount of runtime a battery pack produces depends on the power requirements of components in your electronic equipment. This could be the hard drive setting, screen intensity and back-lighting on notebook computers, the liquid crystal display (LCD) screen and floodlight feature in a video camcorder, or the tri-mode communications network of a cellular phone. Always refer to your equipment’s user manual for power management settings.
Battery Dont'ts
Rechargeable batteries contain a considerable amount of energy.
DO NOT leave on charge for extended periods.
DO NOT short circuit terminals.
DO NOT drop or mutilate.
DO NOT disassemble.
DO NOT place in fire or near sources of extreme heat.
DO NOT expose to moisture or rain.
Normally, a new battery pack comes in a very low charge condition and must be fully charged before use. Refer to the user manual of your portable electronic equipment for charging instructions.
A new battery pack needs to be fully charged and fully discharged or "cycled" as much as five times to condition them into performing at full capacity.
Your equipment may report a fully charge condition in as short as 10 to 15 minutes when the new battery pack is being charged for the first time. This is a normal phenomenon especially for Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) and Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) chemistries. When this happens, remove the battery pack and let it cool down for about fifteen minutes then repeat the charging procedure.
"Conditioning" (fully discharging and then fully charging) is necessary so as to maintain the optimum performance of a battery pack, and is recommended at least once a month particularly for Ni-Cad and Ni-MH batteries. Failure to do so could result in reduced charge capacity and can significantly shorten the battery pack’s useful life. Lithium Ion batteries do not require conditioning.
It is normal for a battery pack to get warm when charging and during use. However, if the battery pack gets excessive hot, there may be a problem with the portable electronic equipment’s charging circuit and should therefore be checked by a qualified technician.
Rechargeable batteries undergo self-discharging when left unused for long periods of time. This is normal particularly in the case of Ni-MH and Li-Ion chemistries. For best results, always store a battery pack fully charged. It should be removed from the equipment and kept in a cool, dry and clean place.
The amount of runtime a battery pack produces depends on the power requirements of components in your electronic equipment. This could be the hard drive setting, screen intensity and back-lighting on notebook computers, the liquid crystal display (LCD) screen and floodlight feature in a video camcorder, or the tri-mode communications network of a cellular phone. Always refer to your equipment’s user manual for power management settings.
Battery Dont'ts
Rechargeable batteries contain a considerable amount of energy.
DO NOT leave on charge for extended periods.
DO NOT short circuit terminals.
DO NOT drop or mutilate.
DO NOT disassemble.
DO NOT place in fire or near sources of extreme heat.
DO NOT expose to moisture or rain.
USE AND MAINTANENCE OF CAR BATTERY
Use and maintenance
Fluid level
The majority of batteries today are maintenance free and don't require top up. If the battery has easily detachable tops then a top up may be required from time to time. In this case the tops are simply removed and the cells topped up with distilled or deionised water just above the visible plates.
Tap or rain water should never be used as they both can contain high levels of minerals which will impair battery performance.
Charge and discharge
In normal automotive service the vehicle's engine-driven alternator powers the vehicle's electrical systems and restores charge used from the battery during engine cranking. When installing a new battery or recharging a battery that has been accidentally discharged completely, one of several different methods can be used to charge it. The most gentle of these is called trickle charging. Other methods include slow-charging and quick-charging, the latter being the harshest.
In emergencies a battery can be jump started, by the battery of another vehicle or by a hand portable battery booster.
Changing a battery
In the vast majority of automobiles, the grounding is provided by connecting the body of the car to the negative electrode of the battery, a system called 'negative ground'. In the past this was different, some cars had 'positive ground', but such vehicles were found to suffer worse body corrosion and, sometimes, blocked radiators due to deposition of metal sludge.
When removing a car battery, the ground connection should be removed first and the other connection second. This ensures that a short circuit will not occur by a wrench touching grounded engine parts while disconnecting the other terminal. When connecting a battery, connect the live (or positive) connection first and then the grounded one.
Freshness
Because of "sulfation" , one should never buy a battery that is more than six-months old. In the United States, the manufacturing date is printed on a sticker. The date can be written in plain text or using an alphanumerical code. The first character is a letter that specifies the month (A for January, B for February). The letter "I" is skipped due to its potential to be mistaken for the number 1. The second character is a single digit that indicates the year of manufacturing (for example, 6 for 2006).
Fluid level
The majority of batteries today are maintenance free and don't require top up. If the battery has easily detachable tops then a top up may be required from time to time. In this case the tops are simply removed and the cells topped up with distilled or deionised water just above the visible plates.
Tap or rain water should never be used as they both can contain high levels of minerals which will impair battery performance.
Charge and discharge
In normal automotive service the vehicle's engine-driven alternator powers the vehicle's electrical systems and restores charge used from the battery during engine cranking. When installing a new battery or recharging a battery that has been accidentally discharged completely, one of several different methods can be used to charge it. The most gentle of these is called trickle charging. Other methods include slow-charging and quick-charging, the latter being the harshest.
In emergencies a battery can be jump started, by the battery of another vehicle or by a hand portable battery booster.
Changing a battery
In the vast majority of automobiles, the grounding is provided by connecting the body of the car to the negative electrode of the battery, a system called 'negative ground'. In the past this was different, some cars had 'positive ground', but such vehicles were found to suffer worse body corrosion and, sometimes, blocked radiators due to deposition of metal sludge.
When removing a car battery, the ground connection should be removed first and the other connection second. This ensures that a short circuit will not occur by a wrench touching grounded engine parts while disconnecting the other terminal. When connecting a battery, connect the live (or positive) connection first and then the grounded one.
Freshness
Because of "sulfation" , one should never buy a battery that is more than six-months old. In the United States, the manufacturing date is printed on a sticker. The date can be written in plain text or using an alphanumerical code. The first character is a letter that specifies the month (A for January, B for February). The letter "I" is skipped due to its potential to be mistaken for the number 1. The second character is a single digit that indicates the year of manufacturing (for example, 6 for 2006).
LEADING BRANDS
Check out any of these batteries and then find the store closest to you.
Use our Battery Selector to find out what battery
you need for your car or truck
1. Power connection
2. Die hard
3. Equalizer
4. Kirkland Signature
5. Everstart.
6. Motocraft.
7. Optima.
8. True Start.
9. Duralast.
10. Mitsubishi.
11. Mazda.
12. Honda.
Use our Battery Selector to find out what battery
you need for your car or truck
1. Power connection
2. Die hard
3. Equalizer
4. Kirkland Signature
5. Everstart.
6. Motocraft.
7. Optima.
8. True Start.
9. Duralast.
10. Mitsubishi.
11. Mazda.
12. Honda.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHILE BUYING A NEW BATTERY?
Battery buying strategy will vary based on climatic conditions.In the colder climates,higher CCA ratings are more important; whereas, in a hot climate, a higher RC ratings are of more importance. requirement.
A. Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
The most important consideration is sizing the battery's CCA rating to
MEET OR EXCEED, depending on the climate, the car's OEM cranking
requirements.
[CCAs] are the discharge load measured in amps that a fully
charged battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds
while maintaining the voltage above 7.2 volts.
Batteries are sometimes advertised by their Cranking Performance Amps (CA)
or Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) measured at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) or
Hot Cranking Amps
(HCA) measured at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C), which are not the same as
CCA.Do not be mislead by CA, MCA or HCA ratings.To convert CAs to CCAs,
multiply the CAs by .8. To convert HCAs to CCAs, multiply HCAs by 0.69.]
In hot climates, buying batteries with double or triple the CCA ratings
that exceed the OEM requirement is a WASTE of money. However, in
colder climates the higher CCA rating the better, due to increased power
required to crank a sluggish engine and the inefficiency of the cold battery.
As batteries age, they are less capable of producing CCAs.
[If more CCA capacity is required, two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be
connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery
with more CCA will have more plates because a larger surface area is
required to produce the higher current.]
B. Reserve Capacity (RC)
The second most important consideration is the Reserve Capacity rating
because of the effects of an increased parasitic (key off) load and in
emergencies. [RC is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80
degrees F (26.7 degrees C) can be discharged at 25 amps until the voltage
falls below 10.5 volts.] More RC is better in every case! In a hot
climate, for example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking amp requirement,
then a 400 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC with more electrolyte
would be more desirable than one with 1000 CCA with 90 minutes of RC.
[If more RC is required, two six volt batteries can be connected in series
or two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a
BCI group size, generally the battery with larger RC will weigh more
because it contains more lead.]
C. Type
The two most common types of CAR batteries are low maintenance
(non-sealed) and maintenance free (non-sealed or sealed). [The low
maintenance batteries have a lead-antimony/calcium (dual alloy or hybrid)
plate formulation; whereas, the maintenance free batteries have a
lead-calcium/calcium formulation.] The advantages of maintenance free
batteries are less preventative maintenance, longer life, faster
recharging, greater overcharge resistance, reduced terminal corrosion and
longer shelf life, but are more prone to deep discharge (dead battery)
failures due to increased shedding of active plate material.In hot
climates, buying non-sealed batteries is recommended because a sealed
battery will NOT allow you to add water when required or to test the
specific gravity with an external hydrometer.Some manufacturers introduced
a third type of car battery, "dual", that Combined a standard battery with switch
able emergency backup cells. For about the same cost a better approach was
to buy two batteries and isolate them.In the future, you can expect to see more
expensive valve regulated (gel cell and absorbent glass mat (AGM) .This is because
car manufacturers want to extend their "bumper-to-bumper" warranty periods or as
the batteries are relocated from under the hood to avoid temperature extremes.
For excessive vibration applications, it is best to buy a commercial or AMG battery.
Car batteries are specially designed for high initial cranking amps
(usually for five to 15 seconds) to start an engine; whereas, deep cycle (or marine)
batteries are designed for prolonged discharges at lower amperage.
A "dual marine" battery is a compromise between a car and deep cycle battery;
however, a CAR battery will give you the best performance
in a CAR. For RVs, a car battery is used to start the engine and a deep
cycle battery is used to power the accessories. [The batteries are
connected to a diode isolator and both are automatically recharged by the
RV's charging system when engine is running.
D. Size
Manufacturers build their batteries to an internationally adopted Battery
Council International (BCI) group number (24, 26, 70, 75, etc.)
specification, [which is based on the physical case size, terminal
placement and terminal polarity.] The OEM battery group number is a good
starting place to determine the replacement group. Within a group, the
CCA and RC ratings, warranty and battery type will vary in models of the
same brand or from brand to brand. Batteries are generally sold by model,
so the group numbers will vary for the same price. This means that for
the SAME price you can potentially buy a physically larger battery with
more RC than the battery you are replacing, e.g. a 34/78 group might
replace a smaller 26/70 group and give you an additional 30 minutes of RC.
If you do this, be sure that the replacement battery will fit, the cables
will connect to the correct terminals, and that the terminals will NOT
touch the hood when closed.
BCI and the battery manufacturers publish application guides that will
contain the OEM cranking amperage requirements and group number
replacement recommendations by make, model and year of car, and battery
size, CCA and RC specifications. Manufacturers might not build or the
store might not carry all the BCI group numbers. To reduce inventory
costs, dual terminal "universal" batteries that will replace several
group sizes are becoming more popular and fit 75% or more of cars on
the road today.
Battery manufacturers or distributors will often "private label" their
batteries for large chain stores. Below is a list in alphabetical order
of the largest domestic battery manufacturers/distributors in North
America and my understanding of some of their brand names, trademarks
and private labels.
E. Freshness
Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. NEVER
buy a battery that is MORE than SIX months old because it is starting to
sulfate. [Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate can not be converted back to
charged material and is created when discharged batteries stand for a long
time or from excessive water loss.] The date of manufacture is stamped on
the case or printed on a sticker. It is usually a combination of alpha
and numeric characters with letters for the months starting with "A" for
January (generally skipping the letter "I") and digit for the year, e.g.,
"J6" for September, 1996. Like bread, fresher is definitely better.
F. Warranty
As with tyre warranties, battery warranties are NOT necessarily indicative
of the quality or cost over the life of the car. Most manufacturers will
prorate warranties based on the LIST price of the bad and replacement
battery, so if a battery failed half way or more through its warranty
period, buying a NEW battery outright might cost you less than paying the
difference under a prorated warranty. The exception to this is the free
replacement warranty period. This represents the risk that the
manufacturer is willing to assume. A longer free replacement warranty
period is better and is usually an indication of the quality of the
battery.
Caution: Batteries contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte which is a highly corrosive poison, that will produce gasses when recharged and explode if ignited.When working with batteries, you need to have plenty of ventilation, remove jewelry, wear protective clothing and eye wear (safety glasses), and exercise caution. Whenever possible, please follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing and charging.
A. Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
The most important consideration is sizing the battery's CCA rating to
MEET OR EXCEED, depending on the climate, the car's OEM cranking
requirements.
[CCAs] are the discharge load measured in amps that a fully
charged battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds
while maintaining the voltage above 7.2 volts.
Batteries are sometimes advertised by their Cranking Performance Amps (CA)
or Marine Cranking Amps (MCA) measured at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) or
Hot Cranking Amps
(HCA) measured at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C), which are not the same as
CCA.Do not be mislead by CA, MCA or HCA ratings.To convert CAs to CCAs,
multiply the CAs by .8. To convert HCAs to CCAs, multiply HCAs by 0.69.]
In hot climates, buying batteries with double or triple the CCA ratings
that exceed the OEM requirement is a WASTE of money. However, in
colder climates the higher CCA rating the better, due to increased power
required to crank a sluggish engine and the inefficiency of the cold battery.
As batteries age, they are less capable of producing CCAs.
[If more CCA capacity is required, two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be
connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery
with more CCA will have more plates because a larger surface area is
required to produce the higher current.]
B. Reserve Capacity (RC)
The second most important consideration is the Reserve Capacity rating
because of the effects of an increased parasitic (key off) load and in
emergencies. [RC is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80
degrees F (26.7 degrees C) can be discharged at 25 amps until the voltage
falls below 10.5 volts.] More RC is better in every case! In a hot
climate, for example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking amp requirement,
then a 400 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC with more electrolyte
would be more desirable than one with 1000 CCA with 90 minutes of RC.
[If more RC is required, two six volt batteries can be connected in series
or two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a
BCI group size, generally the battery with larger RC will weigh more
because it contains more lead.]
C. Type
The two most common types of CAR batteries are low maintenance
(non-sealed) and maintenance free (non-sealed or sealed). [The low
maintenance batteries have a lead-antimony/calcium (dual alloy or hybrid)
plate formulation; whereas, the maintenance free batteries have a
lead-calcium/calcium formulation.] The advantages of maintenance free
batteries are less preventative maintenance, longer life, faster
recharging, greater overcharge resistance, reduced terminal corrosion and
longer shelf life, but are more prone to deep discharge (dead battery)
failures due to increased shedding of active plate material.In hot
climates, buying non-sealed batteries is recommended because a sealed
battery will NOT allow you to add water when required or to test the
specific gravity with an external hydrometer.Some manufacturers introduced
a third type of car battery, "dual", that Combined a standard battery with switch
able emergency backup cells. For about the same cost a better approach was
to buy two batteries and isolate them.In the future, you can expect to see more
expensive valve regulated (gel cell and absorbent glass mat (AGM) .This is because
car manufacturers want to extend their "bumper-to-bumper" warranty periods or as
the batteries are relocated from under the hood to avoid temperature extremes.
For excessive vibration applications, it is best to buy a commercial or AMG battery.
Car batteries are specially designed for high initial cranking amps
(usually for five to 15 seconds) to start an engine; whereas, deep cycle (or marine)
batteries are designed for prolonged discharges at lower amperage.
A "dual marine" battery is a compromise between a car and deep cycle battery;
however, a CAR battery will give you the best performance
in a CAR. For RVs, a car battery is used to start the engine and a deep
cycle battery is used to power the accessories. [The batteries are
connected to a diode isolator and both are automatically recharged by the
RV's charging system when engine is running.
D. Size
Manufacturers build their batteries to an internationally adopted Battery
Council International (BCI) group number (24, 26, 70, 75, etc.)
specification, [which is based on the physical case size, terminal
placement and terminal polarity.] The OEM battery group number is a good
starting place to determine the replacement group. Within a group, the
CCA and RC ratings, warranty and battery type will vary in models of the
same brand or from brand to brand. Batteries are generally sold by model,
so the group numbers will vary for the same price. This means that for
the SAME price you can potentially buy a physically larger battery with
more RC than the battery you are replacing, e.g. a 34/78 group might
replace a smaller 26/70 group and give you an additional 30 minutes of RC.
If you do this, be sure that the replacement battery will fit, the cables
will connect to the correct terminals, and that the terminals will NOT
touch the hood when closed.
BCI and the battery manufacturers publish application guides that will
contain the OEM cranking amperage requirements and group number
replacement recommendations by make, model and year of car, and battery
size, CCA and RC specifications. Manufacturers might not build or the
store might not carry all the BCI group numbers. To reduce inventory
costs, dual terminal "universal" batteries that will replace several
group sizes are becoming more popular and fit 75% or more of cars on
the road today.
Battery manufacturers or distributors will often "private label" their
batteries for large chain stores. Below is a list in alphabetical order
of the largest domestic battery manufacturers/distributors in North
America and my understanding of some of their brand names, trademarks
and private labels.
E. Freshness
Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. NEVER
buy a battery that is MORE than SIX months old because it is starting to
sulfate. [Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate can not be converted back to
charged material and is created when discharged batteries stand for a long
time or from excessive water loss.] The date of manufacture is stamped on
the case or printed on a sticker. It is usually a combination of alpha
and numeric characters with letters for the months starting with "A" for
January (generally skipping the letter "I") and digit for the year, e.g.,
"J6" for September, 1996. Like bread, fresher is definitely better.
F. Warranty
As with tyre warranties, battery warranties are NOT necessarily indicative
of the quality or cost over the life of the car. Most manufacturers will
prorate warranties based on the LIST price of the bad and replacement
battery, so if a battery failed half way or more through its warranty
period, buying a NEW battery outright might cost you less than paying the
difference under a prorated warranty. The exception to this is the free
replacement warranty period. This represents the risk that the
manufacturer is willing to assume. A longer free replacement warranty
period is better and is usually an indication of the quality of the
battery.
Caution: Batteries contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte which is a highly corrosive poison, that will produce gasses when recharged and explode if ignited.When working with batteries, you need to have plenty of ventilation, remove jewelry, wear protective clothing and eye wear (safety glasses), and exercise caution. Whenever possible, please follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing and charging.
WHY WE USE CAR BATTRIES
The primary purpose of a car battery is to START the engine.It also is used to filter or stabilize the power and provide extra power for the ignition, lighting and other accessories when their combined load EXCEEDS the capability of the charging system, i.e., when the engine is idling. In addition, a car battery provides power to the electrical system when the charging system is not operating.
An essential component of your vehicle is your battery, that lies hidden under the bonnet. It is essential that you regularly care for it, for the consequences can be quite embarrassing.Your car just would not move.Yes you can "push-start" but that would not be a long term solution.A well maintained battery can usually last for two years. But these days,with the technological improvements and testing, there are claims that some can last for more than five years.
An essential component of your vehicle is your battery, that lies hidden under the bonnet. It is essential that you regularly care for it, for the consequences can be quite embarrassing.Your car just would not move.Yes you can "push-start" but that would not be a long term solution.A well maintained battery can usually last for two years. But these days,with the technological improvements and testing, there are claims that some can last for more than five years.
WHAT IS A CAR BATTERY
A car battery is a type of electric battery that supplies electric energy to automobile. They can be a SLI battery (Starting - Lighting - Ignition) to power the starter motor, the lights and the ignition system of a vehicle’s engine or a traction battery (used for the main power source of an electric vehicle).
They are usually lead-acid batteries that provide a nominal 12-volt (actually 12.6 volts) potential difference by serially connecting six cells that each produce about 2 to 2.1 volts. As other batteries of its type, it is made up of plates of lead and lead oxide. These plates are submerged into a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution called the electrolyte solution. This process causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons, allowing them to flow through conductors thus producing electricity. As a lead acid battery discharges, the materials of the lead plates react with the acid of the electrolyte, changing the surface of both plates to lead sulphate. When the battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed. The lead sulphate reforms into lead oxide and lead, restoring the plates to their original condition, allowing the process to be repeated
They are usually lead-acid batteries that provide a nominal 12-volt (actually 12.6 volts) potential difference by serially connecting six cells that each produce about 2 to 2.1 volts. As other batteries of its type, it is made up of plates of lead and lead oxide. These plates are submerged into a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution called the electrolyte solution. This process causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons, allowing them to flow through conductors thus producing electricity. As a lead acid battery discharges, the materials of the lead plates react with the acid of the electrolyte, changing the surface of both plates to lead sulphate. When the battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed. The lead sulphate reforms into lead oxide and lead, restoring the plates to their original condition, allowing the process to be repeated
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